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The Aesthetics Edit

Welcome to The Aesthetics Edit™ - our educational platform at the intersection of art, beauty, medicine and science.


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or see a full list of all of our pieces here

 

Latest articles

What is Happening with the EU’s New “Ban” on Retinol?
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

What is Happening with the EU’s New “Ban” on Retinol?

You might have seen it all over the media recently - the EU is apparently banning retinol?! What is going on?

Well don't panic - retinol isn't disappearing completely! Instead, there are new rules that are going to regulate its percentages in cosmetic, over-the-counter products - and this does not apply to the use of these vitamin A derivatives (prescription retinoids) by healthcare professionals.

So let’s explore what’s happening.

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Island Glow: Skincare in the Caribbean
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

Island Glow: Skincare in the Caribbean

Hello from the Cayman Islands!

As a cosmetic doctor new to these stunning shores, I've been captivated not only by the breathtaking beauty of the islands, but also by the rich traditions of natural skincare deeply rooted in Caribbean culture.

This stunning, lush landscape offers an abundance of treasures that have been nurturing skin for generations.

Let's dive into some of the time-tested ingredients that contribute to that radiant "island glow."

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How Do Skincare Ingredients Penetrate into Your Skin?
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

How Do Skincare Ingredients Penetrate into Your Skin?

Attention all skincare enthusiasts! It's time to find out what really goes on with those creams, serums, and lotions that we slather onto our faces every day. Did you know that not all skincare ingredients can penetrate your skin? And that that you don’t always want them to?

Let’s do a little dive into the science behind your skincare.

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What are Neurocosmetics?
Psychology, Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Psychology, Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

What are Neurocosmetics?

The concept of neurocosmetics represents a fascinating convergence of neuroscience and skincare, marking a significant shift in how we perceive beauty and wellness. This emerging field, also known as psychodermatology, delves into the intricate relationship between the skin and the nervous system.

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Teenagers and Skincare
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

Teenagers and Skincare

Tweens and teenagers are diving headfirst into the skincare scene. They’re flocking to beauty counters with their enthusiasm for elaborate 10-step routines once reserved for adults. But behind the glossy facade of 'Sephora kids' and their viral TikTok skincare sagas lies a problem.

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Beyond the Basics: Shining a Light on Lesser-Known Skincare Ingredients
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

Beyond the Basics: Shining a Light on Lesser-Known Skincare Ingredients

You’ve heard of your hyaluronic acid, your Vitamin Cs, and of course your retinoids. But there are a wealth of other skincare ingredients out there. Today, we’re going to highlight some of the lesser-know ingredients in skincare, including lactobionic acid, hypochlorous acid, pyruvic acid, ferulic acid, and phytic acid.

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What is Skin Flooding?
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

What is Skin Flooding?

If you’re interested in skincare, you have to acknowledge the power of a TikTok trend. Let’s be honest, TikTok is a mixed bag of good, bad, and terrible advice, but if you want to keep up-to-date on what’s happening in skincare you will see it first on social media.

The latest trend is called “skin flooding,” and it is all about hydration, hydration, hydration.

Let’s explore.

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Highlights from Asian Skincare: Part II
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

Highlights from Asian Skincare: Part II

I’ve written before that Asian skincare brands are often neglected in most clinics in the UK, despite the fact that there is a growing appetite and interest for their unique products and formulations amongst the general public. I wanted to share some of most beloved and popular skincare ingredients from Asia, as well as take a quick look at what we know about the science behind them.

Who knows - these might be up-and-coming and trending ingredients over the next few years!

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The Best Over-the-Counter Skincare Products of 2022
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

The Best Over-the-Counter Skincare Products of 2022

When it comes to skincare there are so many amazing products out there. While I definitely stand behind the medical-grade skincare products I recommend and use, remember “medical-grade” is a marketing term not a legal definition. We all have different budgets and skincare needs. You can get some amazing products OTC, at your local Boots or off Amazon!

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Bakuchiol: Really as Good as a Retinol?
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

Bakuchiol: Really as Good as a Retinol?

Skincare is always about the “next big thing,” and sometimes you have to be careful that there is actually evidence behind the hype.

A trending skincare ingredient that continues to get a lot of buzz and is touted as an equivalent to retinoids is bakuchiol, a plant-derived ingredient that causes less irritation and is safe in pregnancy.

But is it actually as good as a retinoid, or are we dealing with more of a marketing claim than a scientific one?

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Why You Should Not Use An Over-The-Counter Retinol
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

Why You Should Not Use An Over-The-Counter Retinol

When it comes to skincare I fully acknowledge there is a lot of nonsense out there. “Medical-grade” is a marketing term not a regulated one. If you’re going to buy sunscreen I would rather you buy a broad-spectrum 50 plus SPF over the counter so that you apply it properly (i.e. you slather it on and you are not stingy with it because it cost you £70!) There are great cleansers out there with brands like CeraVe that don’t mean you need to break the bank.

So where should you spend your money?

If you are going to invest in decent skincare - and trust me it is worth investing in - please do so with your active skincare ingredients. And today I am going to focus on the most important skincare ingredient of all - your retinoids. And why you do NOT want to buy these over the counter. You need to get these from a skincare clinician or medical professional.

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What is a Retinoid Sandwich?
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

What is a Retinoid Sandwich?

Want to know one of my number one skincare tips as an aesthetic doctor?

It has to be the retinoid sandwich.

Whenever I discuss this with patients I’m always shocked that they’ve never heard of it before - even if they’ve been skincare aficionados for years!

So what is the retinoid sandwich?

Let’s find out.

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Skin Cycling 101
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

Skin Cycling 101

I am usually the first person to tell you to ignore a TikTok skincare trend - after all, influencers do not equal skincare clinicians or cosmetic chemists! However, there is one trend that is currently taking the app by storm - and best of all it originated with a dermatologist!


The trend is called “skin cycling.” And here is everything you need to know.

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