When it comes to skincare, acids have long been the stars of the show—think glycolic, salicylic, and hyaluronic acids. These tried-and-tested ingredients have earned their reputation for addressing common skin concerns such as acne, wrinkles, and dryness.

But did you know there are lesser-known acids that are starting to make their mark in the skincare world? While some have been used for centuries, others are still emerging in research. In this blog, we’ll introduce you to some skincare acids you may have never heard of, discuss their potential benefits, and help you decide whether they should make their way into your routine.

Lactobionic Acid

Lactobionic acid is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA), a gentle exfoliant that works wonders for sensitive skin. Due to its larger molecular size, it penetrates the skin more slowly, which makes it less irritating than other exfoliants. It also acts as a humectant, drawing moisture into the skin, and provides antioxidant protection. This acid helps strengthen the skin barrier, making it an excellent choice for rosacea or post-procedure care.

Key Takeaway: Lactobionic acid is a mild yet effective exfoliant that hydrates and provides antioxidant protection, making it ideal for sensitive skin.

Hypochlorous Acid

Hypochlorous acid (HOCl) is a weak acid naturally produced by our immune system. It has powerful antimicrobial properties, effectively targeting bacteria, fungi, and viruses, which makes it particularly useful in wound care and acne treatments. It also has anti-inflammatory effects, helping to reduce skin irritation, redness, and swelling. It’s gentle enough for those with sensitive skin conditions, including eczema and rosacea.

Key Takeaway: Hypochlorous acid is a soothing, antimicrobial ingredient that helps with healing and is particularly beneficial for acne, rosacea, and sensitive skin conditions.

Phytic Acid

Phytic acid is a naturally occurring antioxidant found in plant seeds. It works as a mild exfoliant, offering gentle keratolytic effects, and can also inhibit the production of melanin, which helps reduce hyperpigmentation. It’s a powerful antioxidant that can protect the skin from oxidative damage, and its gentle nature makes it suitable for even sensitive skin.

Key Takeaway: Phytic acid is a gentle antioxidant and exfoliant that helps reduce hyperpigmentation, making it an excellent choice for sensitive or reactive skin.

Ferulic Acid

Ferulic acid is a potent antioxidant found in plant cell walls, and it is often combined with vitamins C and E to enhance their stability and effectiveness. It neutralises free radicals and offers protection against UV-induced damage, making it an excellent addition to your skincare routine for anti-ageing benefits. It also has skin-brightening properties and can help reduce the appearance of dark spots and pigmentation.

Key Takeaway: Ferulic acid is a potent antioxidant that enhances the effectiveness of other skincare actives like vitamin C and E, offering photoprotection and anti-ageing benefits.

Succinic Acid

Succinic acid is an emerging ingredient in skincare, though its evidence in treating acne or skin conditions is still limited. It has mild antibacterial and sebum-regulating properties, which can make it beneficial for acne-prone skin. However, there is a lack of recent clinical studies to support its widespread use.

Key Takeaway: Succinic acid shows some promise for acne treatment but lacks strong clinical backing, so it’s worth keeping an eye on as more research emerges.

Sapienic Acid

Sapienic acid is a unique fatty acid naturally found in human sebum. It plays an important role in maintaining the skin’s natural barrier and has antimicrobial properties that target bacteria, fungi, and viruses. While the research is still emerging, it is thought to have potential in treating acne by helping to balance the skin’s microbiome.

Key Takeaway: Sapienic acid is an emerging ingredient with antimicrobial properties that could play a key role in future acne treatments, particularly due to its potential in modulating the skin’s microbiome.

Pyruvic Acid

Pyruvic acid is a powerful exfoliant that acts as both an AHA and BHA, offering strong keratolytic action. It is particularly effective for acne-prone skin because of its ability to regulate sebum production and its antimicrobial properties. It also supports collagen production, making it beneficial for improving skin texture and promoting a smoother, more youthful appearance.

Key Takeaway: Pyruvic acid is a strong exfoliant and sebum-regulator, making it ideal for acne-prone skin and improving skin texture.

Fulvic Acid

Fulvic acid, derived from humic substances, has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It’s thought to help reduce oxidative stress, calm inflammation, and deliver minerals and other active ingredients to the skin. However, while promising, recent clinical studies on its anti-ageing benefits are scarce, and many claims around this ingredient remain unsubstantiated.

Key Takeaway: Fulvic acid has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits, but there is a lack of recent research on its anti-ageing claims. It’s an ingredient to keep an eye on as more studies emerge.

Polyglutamic Acid (PGA)

Polyglutamic acid is a larger molecule than hyaluronic acid (HA), and it can hold up to 4,000 times its weight in water. This makes it a highly effective humectant, drawing moisture into the skin. It works well with HA to enhance hydration levels, and it helps reinforce the skin’s natural moisture barrier. It also improves skin texture and elasticity by providing deep hydration.

Key Takeaway: Polyglutamic acid is a super-hydrator that works synergistically with hyaluronic acid to improve skin texture, elasticity, and hydration levels.

Tranexamic Acid (TXA)

Tranexamic acid has gained popularity as a treatment for hyperpigmentation, particularly for conditions like melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It works by inhibiting the activation of melanocytes, the cells responsible for producing melanin. TXA is effective in both topical and oral formulations, and it has shown to be gentler than other skin-brightening agents like hydroquinone.

Key Takeaway: Tranexamic acid is a powerful, clinically-backed treatment for hyperpigmentation, offering a gentler alternative to other skin-brightening ingredients like hydroquinone.

Final Thoughts

While many skincare acids have established themselves as staples in our routines, these lesser-known acids are slowly gaining attention for their unique benefits. From brightening hyperpigmentation to soothing sensitive skin, these acids offer exciting possibilities.

As always, it’s important to understand the science behind these ingredients and how they can work together to support your skincare goals. As research continues to unfold, keep an eye on these emerging acids—they could be the next big thing in your skincare routine.

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