Cosmetics in the Ancient World

What do “cosmetics” have to do with aesthetic medicine?

We use the term often, and it has different connotations to different people. Well, have you ever wondered the exact definition of a "cosmetic"? It's more than just makeup! Think toothpaste, shampoo, and even (your aesthetic clinician’s favourite) sunscreen. The word "cosmetic" comes from the ancient Greek idea of "skills and adornment," encompassing a wide range of products used to beautify and care for our bodies.

Today, cosmetics include everything from skincare and haircare to makeup, fragrances, and personal care items. We use these products daily to cleanse, beautify, and express ourselves. Whether it's a face wash, a bold lipstick, or a favorite perfume, cosmetics play a big role in our lives.

Interestingly, the legal definition of "cosmetic" varies around the world. While the US focuses on products that alter appearance, the EU and China emphasise cleansing and protection.

Ancient Origins

Cosmetics have been an integral part of human culture for thousands of years, playing a role in not only hygiene, but also religion, class distinctions, and aesthetics. Their use often offers a fascinating glimpse into the priorities and beliefs of ancient civilisations.

Let’s begin in ancient Egypt, as early as 10000 BCE, where cosmetics were not merely about appearance—they were essential for health and protection. Men and women used scented oils and ointments to cleanse, moisturise, and mask body odours in the harsh climate of the Nile Valley. These products, made from ingredients like myrrh, thyme, chamomile, lavender, and almond oil, also acted as sunblock, shielding skin from the intense sun and dry winds. Perfumes crafted from these natural elements were deeply spiritual, playing a central role in religious rituals.

By 4000 BCE, Egyptian women had mastered the art of makeup. They used galena mesdemet, a grey-black compound of copper and lead ore, as well as vibrant green malachite paste made from copper minerals to enhance their features. Kohl, made from burnt almonds, oxidised copper, lead, and ochre, was applied to create dramatic almond-shaped eyes, believed to ward off evil spirits and improve eyesight. Makeup was so valued that women carried it in ornate boxes during social gatherings, highlighting its cultural importance.

Outside Egypt, beauty rituals also flourished. Around 3000 BCE, the Chinese began staining their fingernails with mixtures of gum arabic, gelatin, beeswax, and egg whites, using colours to signify social rank. Royals of the Chou Dynasty adorned their nails with gold or silver, while black and red were reserved for other nobility. Bright nail colours were strictly forbidden for the lower classes. In Greece, women sought pale complexions using white lead and added colour with rouge made from crushed mulberries. They even used fake eyebrows made of oxen hair, showcasing their resourcefulness in achieving fashionable appearances.

By 1500 BCE, East Asian beauty practices became more elaborate. Both Chinese and Japanese cultures embraced rice powder to create a pale complexion, and henna was used to dye hair and skin, reflecting artistic expression. Some women went as far as shaving off their eyebrows or painting their teeth gold or black, emphasising dramatic aesthetic ideals.

In 1000 BCE, Greek women continued their pursuit of beauty with the creation of rudimentary lipstick made from ochre clays mixed with red iron oxide. They also used chalk or lead face powder to whiten their skin, a mark of wealth and privilege. Roman beauty rituals, emerging by 100 CE, combined ingenuity with indulgence. Acne was treated with barley flour and butter, nails were polished with a mixture of sheep fat and blood, and mud baths became a popular way to cleanse and rejuvenate. Roman men, inspired by fair-haired people encountered during conquests, began dyeing their hair blonde.

By 300-400 CE, henna had become a celebrated cosmetic in India and North Africa. It was used not only as a hair dye but also in the intricate art form of mehndi, where complex designs were painted on hands and feet for special occasions, particularly weddings. Henna symbolised prosperity and auspicious beginnings, marking it as a deeply cultural and spiritual practice.

Final Thoughts

The history of cosmetics reveals a universal desire for self-expression, care, and identity. From the fragrant oils of Egypt to the artistic rituals of henna in India, ancient beauty practices laid the foundation for the modern beauty industry. These traditions remind us of the creativity and ingenuity of our ancestors in their enduring quest for beauty.

So next time you reach for your favorite cosmetic product, remember its rich and ancient history!

See our summary slides below: