What is Happening with the EU’s New “Ban” on Retinol?

You might have seen it all over the media recently - the EU is apparently banning retinol?! What is going on?

Well don't panic - retinol isn't disappearing completely! Instead, there are new rules that are going to regulate its percentages in cosmetic, over-the-counter products - and this does not apply to the use of these vitamin A derivatives (prescription retinoids) by healthcare professionals.

So let’s explore what’s happening.

What are the new rules?

The European Union (EU) is making significant changes to the regulation of retinol, a widely used ingredient in skincare products celebrated for its anti-ageing and skin-clarifying properties. We have covered this skincare ingredient extensively in previous articles, and it is certainly a powerful tool in an aesthetic clinician’s arsenal.

The new rules say skincare products can have up to 0.3% retinol, while body care products get a lower limit of 0.05%.

As of late 2024, these new rules are being phased in over 36 months. These changes are not a complete ban on retinol but rather a precautionary measure by the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). The SCCS aims to mitigate potential risks associated with overexposure to vitamin A, particularly in scenarios where individuals might be consuming high levels of vitamin A through diet or supplements in addition to topical application. While vitamin A is essential for various bodily functions, excessive amounts can lead to adverse health effects.

What does this mean for my products?

For consumers, this means some products with higher retinol concentrations might be reformulated or discontinued by 2026. The skincare industry is not abandoning retinol, but rather adapting to the evolving landscape. This regulatory shift is likely to spur innovation, with brands focusing on optimising formulations and exploring alternative ingredients that can deliver similar results with. We can expect to see a wider range of products catering to different skin types and concerns.

Additionally, the new rules do not impact prescription retinol products, which are often used under the guidance of a medical professional for specific skin conditions. This distinction highlights the importance of professional consultation for those seeking more potent retinol treatments. It's also important to note that alternative forms of vitamin A, like retinal (retinaldehyde), are not subject to these restrictions.

So does this mean that retinols are dangerous?

The new EU regulations on retinol concentration might initially raise concerns about the safety of this popular skincare ingredient. However, it's crucial to understand that these measures are not a condemnation of retinol itself, but rather a precautionary step to protect those who might misuse or overuse products with high concentrations.

Used correctly and in moderation, retinol remains a safe and effective skincare ingredient with a wealth of scientific evidence supporting its benefits. The new regulations aim to prevent potential harm from incorrect use - in other words excessive and prolonged use, particularly when applied over large areas of the body.

Realistically, very little Vitamin A is typically absorbed through the skin in comparison to dietary intake, and this is partly the reason why the unregulated supplement market is actually much more dangerous and potentially harmful than skincare - which is highly regulated as this new law demonstrates.

Final Thoughts

This shift underscores a broader trend in the skincare industry. As public interest in skincare ingredients and their effects grows, so too does the potential for misuse and misinformation. Social media platforms, while valuable for sharing information, can also amplify unsubstantiated claims and promote unsafe practices. Moreover, well-meaning advice from non-experts or even experts speaking outside their area of expertise can inadvertently lead consumers astray.

The EU's new rules, while most clinicians probably agree may be over-the-top, can be seen as a response to this complex landscape, aiming to balance the availability of effective skincare options with the necessity of protecting consumers from potential harm. These regulations highlight the importance of using retinol under the guidance of knowledgeable professionals and with a clear understanding of its benefits and risks.

Find our summary slides below: