Beyond the Basics: Shining a Light on Lesser-Known Skincare Ingredients

You’ve heard of your hyaluronic acid, your Vitamin Cs, and of course your retinoids. But there are a wealth of other skincare ingredients out there. Today, we’re going to highlight some of the lesser-know ingredients in skincare.

Lactobionic Acid

Lactobionic acid is a type of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that is derived from lactose, a sugar found in milk. It is a gentle exfoliant that works by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells, helping to remove them from the surface of the skin. Lactobionic acid is also a humectant, which means it can help to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it a good option for dry or dehydrated skin.

Lactobionic acid is less irritating than other alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as glycolic acid, because it has a larger molecular size that prevents it from penetrating as deeply into the skin. This makes it a good option for people with sensitive skin who may not be able to tolerate other types of exfoliants.

Lactobionic acid has been shown to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, which may help to protect the skin from environmental damage and reduce redness and irritation. It has also been used in some studies to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as to brighten and even out the skin tone.

For more information, check out my comments in this article in Stylist.

Hypochlorous Acid

This should be on your radar as a powerhouse skincare ingreident anyone can benefit from. We covered it extensively in a full article here, but we will summarise below.

Hypochlorous acid (HOCl) is a naturally occurring substance that is produced by white blood cells as part of the body's immune response to infection. It is a weak acid with strong oxidizing properties, which means it can effectively kill bacteria, viruses, and other pathogens.

In recent years, hypochlorous acid has been used in some skincare products, particularly those aimed at treating acne and other skin infections. It is believed to be effective in killing the bacteria that contribute to acne, without causing the irritation and dryness that can be associated with other acne treatments. It is also used as an anti-inflammatory treatment that promotes barrier repair and overall skin health.

Phytic Acid

Phytic acid is a naturally occurring substance found in many plant-based foods, including grains, seeds, nuts, and legumes. It is a type of phosphorus molecule that can bind to minerals such as calcium, iron, and zinc, forming a compound called phytate.

In skincare, phytic acid is sometimes used as an exfoliant and skin-brightening agent. It is in the alpha-hydroxy acid family, but is very gentle. It works by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells and promoting their shedding from the surface of the skin. This can help to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and even out skin tone.

Phytic acid is also believed to have antioxidant properties, which can help to protect the skin from environmental stressors such as pollution and UV radiation. Additionally, it has been shown to have anti-inflammatory effects, making it a potential option for people with acne-prone or sensitive skin.

Ferulic Acid

Ferulic acid is a plant-based antioxidant that is commonly found in foods such as rice, wheat, and oats. It is also found in some fruits and vegetables, such as apples and oranges. Ferulic acid is a type of phenolic acid, which is known for its ability to neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation, and protect against environmental stressors.

In skincare, ferulic acid is commonly used in combination with other antioxidants, such as vitamin C and vitamin E, to enhance their effectiveness. It has been shown to improve the stability and efficacy of these antioxidants, making them more effective at protecting the skin from oxidative damage caused by UV radiation and other environmental stressors.

Overall, ferulic acid is a versatile and effective ingredient in skincare, and its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties make it a valuable addition to any skincare routine.

Pyruvic Acid

Pyruvic acid is an alpha-keto acid that is used in skincare for its exfoliating and skin-renewing properties. It is derived from natural sources such as fruits and vegetables, and is often used in chemical peels and other professional skincare treatments.

In skincare, pyruvic acid works by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together, allowing them to be easily sloughed off. This process helps to improve skin texture and tone, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve overall skin clarity.

However, it's important to note that pyruvic acid is a strong acid and should be used with caution. It is typically recommended for use by licensed professionals, and should not be used by those with sensitive skin or skin conditions such as eczema or rosacea.