A Brief History of Sunscreen

Sunscreen has a long and rich history, dating back thousands of years to ancient civilizations. While we have perfected it in the 21st century and innovations are ongoing, protecting your skin has never been a new thing.

Let’s take a whirlwind tour through this fascinating topic!

Historical Uses of Sunscreen

Asia and Polynesia

If you look at many different ancient civilizations, you will see varying levels of interest and innovation when it comes to sun protection. Not all of this included sunscreen, however. For example, in Ancient China, there is evidence of the use of parasols and wide-brimmed hats for sun protection, especially among the wealthy and noble classes. During the Han Dynasty (206 BCE - 220 CE), the upper class in China often wore long, loose clothing made from silk or other lightweight fabrics to protect their skin from the sun. They also wore wide-brimmed hats and carried umbrellas to shield their faces from the sun. This practice continued into later dynasties as well. Traditional Chinese medicine has long used various natural ingredients for skin health and protection, including green tea, ginkgo biloba, and liquorice root. While these ingredients have not been studied in the context of modern sun protection, they may have provided some degree of natural protection against the harmful effects of the sun. However, the widespread use of sun protection was not widely adopted until much later, with the increased understanding of the dangers of sun exposure and the availability of more effective sun protection products.

In other parts of Asia natural ingredients were used as sunscreens. One traditional sunscreen used in Japan was made from green tea leaves known as “kabusecha,” high quality leaves that are grown under shade for a few weeks before harvest. Kabusecha contains high levels of catechins, which are antioxidants that can help to protect the skin from UV radiation. One catechin in particular, epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), has been shown in some studies to have sun-protective effects although further research is needed in this area.

The leaves were then processed into a powder that can be mixed with water to create a paste that is applied to the skin to protect against the sun's harmful rays. According to a 2014 article published in The Journal of Investigative Dermatology, the use of green tea as a form of sun protection dates back to at least the 17th century in Japan. The article notes that a famous Japanese poet and diarist named Basho wrote about using green tea to protect his face from the sun during his travels. The use of green tea as a natural sunscreen has also been documented in traditional Japanese medicine. According to the Japanese Pharmacopoeia, a book that contains official standards for traditional Japanese medicines, green tea has been used for centuries to treat a variety of skin conditions, including sunburn.

In Southeast Asia, coconut oil has been used as a natural sunscreen for generations. Filipino farmers and fishermen apply coconut oil to their skin to protect themselves from the harsh tropical sun. The use of coconut oil for sun protection is also a common practice in other Southeast Asian countries, such as Indonesia and Malaysia.

In Polynesia, the use of coconut oil as a natural sunscreen is also a common practice. The oil is rich in lauric acid and may have a natural SPF of around 4, which can help to protect the skin from sun damage, however research is still needed to quantify exactly what the level of protection is.

In India, sandalwood paste has been used for skincare for thousands of years. Sandalwood is native to India and has been widely used in traditional Ayurvedic medicine. The paste is made by grinding sandalwood into a fine powder and mixing it with water or another liquid such as rose water or coconut oil. The paste is applied to the skin as a face mask or a body pack and is known for its cooling and soothing properties, as well as its ability to hydrate and nourish the skin. Additionally, the natural antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties of sandalwood make it an effective treatment for skin conditions such as acne, sunburn, and rashes. The paste was also believed to protect the skin from the harmful effects of the sun, although its effectiveness as a sunscreen has not been scientifically proven.

Africa

Information about historical sunscreens used in African countries is limited. However, traditional practices and remedies suggest that various natural ingredients have been used to protect the skin from the sun. The Ancient Egyptians used various methods to protect themselves from the sun, such as wearing wigs, headdresses, and veils, as well as using umbrellas and shade sails. They also used oils and ointments, mixtures of ingredients such as red raspberry, frankincense, and myrrh. These may have helped protect their skin from the sun, although these ingredients were primarily used as part of other beauty and skin care rituals. They also used ingredients like rice bran, which absorbs ultraviolet light, jasmine, which helps protect DNA, and lupine, which lightens skin.

The Himba people of Namibia in Africa use otjize, a traditional cosmetic paste made from a mixture of butterfat, red ochre and other natural ingredients. The use of otjize has a long history among the Himba people, who believe it symbolizes the spiritual connection to their ancestors and the land. It also served practical purposes, such as protecting the skin from sun exposure and insect bites, as well as providing a natural moisturising effect. In 2022, a team of South African and French scientists published a study of otjize's impressive UV filtration abilities.

Shea butter, a natural fat extracted from the nuts of the shea tree, as a traditional sunscreen in some African countries. Shea butter has natural sun-protective properties due to its high content of vitamins A and E, which are known for their antioxidant and moisturising properties. Antioxidants can help neutralise free radicals that are generated by UV radiation.

In addition, it has been reported that the nomadic Tuareg people of the Sahara desert have used a paste made from indigo and other natural ingredients to protect their skin from the harsh sun. One possible way that indigo paste may protect the skin from the sun is through its ability to absorb UV radiation. Indigo has been shown to have UV-absorbing properties, which means that it can absorb some of the UV radiation that reaches the skin and reduce the amount of damage that is caused.

The Americas

There is limited information available about historical sunscreens used in the Americas, as much of the indigenous knowledge and practices were lost or suppressed during colonization and other periods of cultural disruption. We do have some information however. The Himba people aren’t the only ones who have used red ochre, whose earliest documented is from 285,000 years ago. Ancient civilizations of Mexico, such as the Aztecs, used natural ingredients to protect their skin from the sun. They made a paste from a mixture of natural ingredients, such as red ochre, charcoal, and maize flour, which they applied to their skin to help protect against the harsh sun and its damaging effects on the skin. They also used large conical hats made of woven materials to provide additional protection.

The Maya people of Central America are known to have used the oil from the annatto plant as a natural sunscreen. Annatto oil contains a natural pigment called bixin, which has been shown to have some UV-protective properties. by absorbing UB radiation and scavenging free radicals. The Maya would apply the oil to their skin to protect themselves from the strong Central American sun.

In the Andean region of South America, people have long used a plant called the cactus opuntia or prickly pear as a form of natural sun protection. The juice of the cactus is applied to the skin, and it is believed to help soothe and heal sunburns. While there is limited scientific research specifically on the sun protective properties of prickly pear, there is some evidence to suggest that it may have benefits for the skin and may provide some level of sun protection by reducing oxidative stress.

Native American communities in North America have a long history of using natural resources to protect themselves from the sun. This includes using materials such as animal hides, plants, and earth pigments to make clothing and accessories that provide shade and sun protection. The Pueblo people of the Southwest made sunscreen from a mixture of clay and water, while the Inuit people of Alaska used a mixture of fish oil and snow to protect their skin from the sun. Some tribes made hats from materials like straw, woven grasses, or animal hides to protect their heads and faces from the sun. For example, the Navajo people of the Southwest wore hats made from woven yucca fibers, while the Iroquois of the Northeast made hats from birch bark. Some Native American communities also used products like bear grease or herbal ointments, to soothe their skin from the sunburn and insect bites.

Europe

While there is a rich history of traditional remedies and practices related to skin care in European countries, there is not a strong tradition of using natural products specifically for sun protection. Prior to the modern era, the majority of people worked outdoors and did not have access to effective sun protection beyond hats, clothing, and shade.

However, there are some examples of historical practices related to sun protection in Europe. For example, the Ancient Greeks used natural substances like olive oil in their skincare routines. While the Greeks primarily used olive oil to keep their skin soft and supple, olive oil does have some protective properties, with an SPF rating of approximately 8.

The Modern Era

It's important to note that while these traditional practices may provide some degree of natural protection against the sun, they are not a substitute for modern commercial sunscreens. Sunscreen products today have been developed and tested to provide the most effective protection against the harmful effects of the sun.

The history of sunscreen in the 20th century can be divided into several stages of development and evolution.

In the early part of the century, sunscreens were not widely used and were not as sophisticated as they are today. Sunburn prevention was mainly achieved through clothing and shade. In the 1920s, a French chemist, Gabriel Niel, discovered that certain compounds, such as PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid) and its derivatives, provided some protection against UV radiation. The first commercial sunscreen product, introduced in the 1930s, was a lotion that contained PABA. L'Oreal, a French cosmetics company, introduced the first commercial sunscreen product in 1936. This lotion was primarily used by lifeguards and other individuals who spent a lot of time outdoors in the sun.

While the first sunscreen was a significant advance in sun protection, it had some limitations. The lotion was often greasy and sticky, and it was not very effective in protecting the skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation. Despite these limitations, the discovery of PABA and the introduction of the first sunscreen marked the beginning of the modern sunscreen industry.

In the 1940s and 1950s, the link between skin cancer and exposure to UV radiation became more widely recognized, and sunscreens started to gain popularity. However, the sunscreens available at the time were often greasy, sticky, and not very effective.

In the 1960s and 1970s, advances in chemistry and a growing awareness of the dangers of skin cancer led to the development of more effective and user-friendly sunscreens. The introduction of non-greasy lotions and the use of new UV-absorbing compounds, such as oxybenzone and avobenzone, greatly improved the efficacy and appeal of sunscreens.

In the 1980s, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) began to regulate sunscreens, setting standards for their efficacy and safety. The use of SPF (sun protection factor) ratings, which indicate the level of protection a product provides against UV radiation, became widespread.

In the 1990s and 2000s, advances in technology and an increased demand for better sun protection led to the development of more sophisticated sunscreens. Products with a combination of physical and chemical UV filters, such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, became popular. Sunscreens with improved texture and longer-lasting protection were introduced. In addition, new types of sunscreens, such as spray sunscreens and sunscreens for sensitive skin, were developed to meet the needs of different consumer groups.

Final Thoughts

Overall, the history of sunscreen has evolved over the centuries, with various cultures and civilizations contributing to its development. It is a fascinating subject that demonstrates the ingenuity and resourcefulness of cultures throughout the world. People have been using natural substances to protect themselves from the sun's harmful rays for centuries, and this knowledge has been passed down from generation to generation. The use of various plant extracts, oils, and minerals in sun protection has been documented in cultures from Asia to Africa, Polynesia to Europe, and the Americas.

Today, sunscreen is widely recognized as an important tool for preventing skin damage from the sun's harmful rays. Remember, I would always recommend broad spectrum and factor 50+ for skin protection!

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