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The Aesthetics Edit

Welcome to The Aesthetics Edit™ - our educational platform at the intersection of art, beauty, medicine and science.


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or see a full list of all of our pieces here

 

Latest articles

Face Yoga: Complete and Utter Nonsense?
Lifestyle Medicine Dr Emmaline Ashley Lifestyle Medicine Dr Emmaline Ashley

Face Yoga: Complete and Utter Nonsense?

love yoga as much as the next person. Yoga was a huge part of my life and what kept me feeling healthy and well as a medical student, and I have tried to keep it as part of my daily routine (with varying success) when I became a doctor.


However, there is one “yoga” trend that I cannot get behind. And that is face yoga. Let’s be clear, there are no rigorous, scientific studies to verify the claims that these sorts of face workouts are effective at eliminating wrinkles.

But let’s dive a little deeper into this practice.

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Why Aesthetics Should be Medical, NOT a Beauty Trend
Aesthetic Medicine Dr Emmaline Ashley Aesthetic Medicine Dr Emmaline Ashley

Why Aesthetics Should be Medical, NOT a Beauty Trend

It shouldn’t be complicated or controversial to say that a medical specialty should be medical. Unfortunately, in this case, it sometimes is.

Aesthetic medicine is exactly that - a medical specialty. Unfortunately, lack of regulation in the UK has trivialised this specialty, and while it clearly is related to beauty, it is vitally important that it is understood to be completely distinct and separate from beauty. Medical aesthetics treatments are NOT beauty treatments.

Beauty treatments, make-up, fashion - these all follow trends that are influenced by place, time, and culture.

Medical treatments should not be based on trends.

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The Best Over-the-Counter Skincare Products of 2022
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

The Best Over-the-Counter Skincare Products of 2022

When it comes to skincare there are so many amazing products out there. While I definitely stand behind the medical-grade skincare products I recommend and use, remember “medical-grade” is a marketing term not a legal definition. We all have different budgets and skincare needs. You can get some amazing products OTC, at your local Boots or off Amazon!

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Long, Long Lashes: Do Eyelash Serums Really Work?
Aesthetic Medicine Dr Emmaline Ashley Aesthetic Medicine Dr Emmaline Ashley

Long, Long Lashes: Do Eyelash Serums Really Work?

Raise your hands if you were born cursed with short, stubby lashes?

That is definitely me.

I also approached eyelash serums with a healthy dose of skepticism - and to be honest, that skepticism is well-deserved in most cases.

However, there are genuinely eyelash growth serums that do work. They are prescription medications containing prostaglandins, and should only be available to you after a medical consultation with a prescribing doctor. But there is some controversy about the safety of such serums in the long-term.

So let’s delve into the science behind them.

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The Spies who Underwent Plastic Surgery
Medical History, Plastic Surgery Dr Emmaline Ashley Medical History, Plastic Surgery Dr Emmaline Ashley

The Spies who Underwent Plastic Surgery

t sounds like something out of a Hollywood film, but it really did happen! In the shadowy world of wartime espionage, an elite group of spies and secret group of plastic surgeons worked together to sculpt new faces and new identities during World War II.


Recently de-classified documents from Britain’s Special Operations Executive (SOE) have revealed this fascinating chapter in medical history.

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Bakuchiol: Really as Good as a Retinol?
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

Bakuchiol: Really as Good as a Retinol?

Skincare is always about the “next big thing,” and sometimes you have to be careful that there is actually evidence behind the hype.

A trending skincare ingredient that continues to get a lot of buzz and is touted as an equivalent to retinoids is bakuchiol, a plant-derived ingredient that causes less irritation and is safe in pregnancy.

But is it actually as good as a retinoid, or are we dealing with more of a marketing claim than a scientific one?

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Why You Should Not Use An Over-The-Counter Retinol
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

Why You Should Not Use An Over-The-Counter Retinol

When it comes to skincare I fully acknowledge there is a lot of nonsense out there. “Medical-grade” is a marketing term not a regulated one. If you’re going to buy sunscreen I would rather you buy a broad-spectrum 50 plus SPF over the counter so that you apply it properly (i.e. you slather it on and you are not stingy with it because it cost you £70!) There are great cleansers out there with brands like CeraVe that don’t mean you need to break the bank.

So where should you spend your money?

If you are going to invest in decent skincare - and trust me it is worth investing in - please do so with your active skincare ingredients. And today I am going to focus on the most important skincare ingredient of all - your retinoids. And why you do NOT want to buy these over the counter. You need to get these from a skincare clinician or medical professional.

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What is a Retinoid Sandwich?
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

What is a Retinoid Sandwich?

Want to know one of my number one skincare tips as an aesthetic doctor?

It has to be the retinoid sandwich.

Whenever I discuss this with patients I’m always shocked that they’ve never heard of it before - even if they’ve been skincare aficionados for years!

So what is the retinoid sandwich?

Let’s find out.

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Skin Cycling 101
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

Skin Cycling 101

I am usually the first person to tell you to ignore a TikTok skincare trend - after all, influencers do not equal skincare clinicians or cosmetic chemists! However, there is one trend that is currently taking the app by storm - and best of all it originated with a dermatologist!


The trend is called “skin cycling.” And here is everything you need to know.

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What is Nuceiva?
Injectables Dr Emmaline Ashley Injectables Dr Emmaline Ashley

What is Nuceiva?

Another brand new toxin has hit the market in the UK! You’re going to be hearing a lot about Nuceiva in the coming months, the “Newtox” in town.

First of all, it is not an entirely new entity. Nuceiva [probotulinumotxinA] has been used since 2019 in the United States, where it is marketed by Evolus under the name Jeuveau.

So what should you know about Nuceiva?

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What is Daxxify?
Injectables Dr Emmaline Ashley Injectables Dr Emmaline Ashley

What is Daxxify?

Another brand new toxin is about to hit the market! We have covered Alluzience and Letybo in two recent articles, and now US company Revance has announced FDA approval of its brand new daxibotulinumtoxinA, known as Daxxify.


So what should you know about Daxxify?

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Life in Plastic: The True Origin of Cosmetic Medicine
Plastic Surgery Dr Emmaline Ashley Plastic Surgery Dr Emmaline Ashley

Life in Plastic: The True Origin of Cosmetic Medicine

My first love was plastic surgery - and I always find it interesting to see the connotation associated with it today. People call women “plastic” as an insult, evoking the image of a Barbie doll, shaped and unnaturally molded to a male-centric ideal.

That is not what plastic surgery (or aesthetic medicine) is, was, or should be.

Plastic comes from the Greek “plastike”(teckhne) the art of modeling or sculpting, meaning return to form and function.

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The Rise of “Instagram Face”
Aesthetic Medicine Dr Emmaline Ashley Aesthetic Medicine Dr Emmaline Ashley

The Rise of “Instagram Face”

The concept of “Instagram face” is not a new one, but has received more recent attention as Meta has banned filters that encourage plastic surgery. Awareness of the role that social media and photo editing plays in aesthetic medicine is incredibly important for both clinicians and patients. The influence of social media can be incredibly negative, and it means it’s more important than ever to navigate between good, ethical medical practice versus “selling” cosmetic procedures.

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Aesthetic Complications in Skin of Colour: What You Need to Know
Skin Biology, Skin Concerns Dr Emmaline Ashley Skin Biology, Skin Concerns Dr Emmaline Ashley

Aesthetic Complications in Skin of Colour: What You Need to Know

The lack of representation of skin of colour in medical training means that patients can lack the confidence that their skin concerns will be recognised and treated appropriately by their healthcare professional.

If you are a patient with skin of colour, which complications associated with cosmetic treatments should you be worried about?

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