Vitamins & Skin: An Essential Guide

“Vitamin” is such a buzzword in skincare and health in general. People love declaring that something contains vitamins and is great for you, but sometimes that loses its meaning when it is repeated again and again without an explanation of how they work.

The truth is that vitamins are an essential part of your skin health, but not all vitamin formulations are created equal. This is why it’s important to know exactly how each vitamin works its magic, as well as which products are worth investing in. Vitamins can also be dangerous if supplemented inappropriately, so never take supplements without advice from your doctor and remember that if you have a full, rich diet you will get all your vitamins through your food.

In this article we will summarise the roles of vitamins in our overall health, with a focus on skin (of course), and explain where you can find these vitamins in your food!

What Is A Vitamin?

It seems like such a basic question, but if you were to ask yourself to explain vitamins to someone else, you might find it hard to find the exact words. So we’ve summarised it for you.

Vitamins are organic molecules that are needed in small amounts in the diet. In the body they are modified or metabolised into active molecules that form essential roles in many biochemical pathways. There are 12 vitamins that we require in our diet. Vitamins are very complex molecules to synthesise, so from an evolutionary point of view it makes sense that it is more efficient to ingest the vitamins we need than to synthesise them ourselves. A vitamin deficiency will lead to disease or pathology.

Remember there is a difference between lipid- (or fat-) soluble and water-soluble vitamins. Vitamins that are water-soluble are eliminated by our kidneys, so that if we have any excess vitamin in our bodies they will be excreted in our urine. However, lipid-soluble vitamins are broken (which are A, D, E, and K) are stored in the body’s fat and liver when there is an excess amount.

Which Vitamins are Important for Skin?

Vitamin A

Vitamin As are a group of fat-soluble vitamins, which include retinol, retinal, and retinyl esters, and the carotenoids. Vitamin A is versatile and incredibly important, and my favourite vitamin if I’m honest!

Skincare enthusiasts will know that retinoids are derived from Vitamin A, and we have covered our beloved retinoids extensively in a previous article. For full details on its use in aesthetic medicine and skincare, and the science behind it, read that piece.

In summary, when it comes to skin Vitamin A stimulates collagen and elastin production, as well as the proliferation of sugars that help to hydrate the skin. It reduces fine lines and wrinkles, scars and hyperpigmentation.

It is the most research-backed anti-ageing tool in our arsenal. Topically, it has been used for anti-ageing, acne, psoriasis, and rosacea.

What about Vitamin A and its roles outside of skin health?

Vitamins As are also important for eye health. They work to protect the cornea, keeping the eye from drying out. There is some evidence that beta-carotene and lutein (the carotenoids) can help prevent macular degeneration, an age-related deterioration in our central eyesight.

They also play a role in our immune systems. They are important for the regulation of our mucous membranes, which form part of our body’s barrier to the outside world. Although the mechanism of action is not completely understood, they play an important role in regulating our immune systems, particularly in the proliferation of white blood cells to help fight infection.

Dietary sources of vitamin A includes cheese, eggs, oily fish, and it is especially rich in liver products. For plant based sources of Vitamin A we must look to a pigment called beta-carotene. It can be converted into Vitamin A by the body, and is found in vegetables like spinach, carrots, sweet potatoes, and red peppers. Fruit sources include mango, papaya, and apricots.

To supplement or not to supplement? Well, if you are eating a full and healthy diet, you should never need to supplement Vitamin A. The average male needs about 700 ug/day, and the average female needs about 600 ug/day. The NHS recommends not to exceed 1.5mg/day, which could lead to complications like an increased risk of osteoporosis in older people. Vitamin A excess can cause harm to fetuses, so pregnant women are advised not to take supplements high in Vitamin A or eat foods like liver pâté.

Vitamin B

Vitamin B is not just one thing, but rather is composed of a large group of eight water-soluble vitamins. The important B vitamins when it comes to skin are Vitamin B3 and B5.

Vitamin B3

Vitamin B3 most skin-friendly form is niacinamide. It is used to treat photodamage, hyerpigmentation, and dryness. Niacinamide itself has been shown to reduce redness and flushing (due to its anti-inflammatory properties), which can be very useful in rosacea patients. Think of niacinamde as a powerful skin brightener.

The dietary form of Vitamin B3 (niacin) may play a role in our cardiovascular help, helping to regulate lipid and cholesterol levels in our blood.

Vitamin B3 can be found in meat, fish, wheat flour, and eggs. It cannot be stored in the body, so you need to consume it via your food.

Vitamin B5

Pantothenic acid helps to oxidise fatty acids and. Vitamin B5 can work as a moisturiser and soften the skin. A small study has looked at its role in reducing acne, although further research into this area is needed.

Vitamin B5 may also play a role in cardiovascular health in helping to regulate cholesterol and lipid levels in the blood. It may also play a role in brain health, memory, and learning.

Pantothenic acid can be found in most vegetables, wholegrain foods, fortified cereals, and also in meat like chicken, beef, liver, kidney, eggs and avocados.

The Science: Together, these B vitamins are a huge role in energy production, DNA synthesis, and brain functioning. Niacinamide is a precursor to multiple essential coenzymes in the body, and has an antioxidant effect to protect your cells from damage. It will also inhibit melanosome transfer to keratinocytes. Pantothenic acid will be converted to coenzyme A in the body, and its metabolism plays an important role in regulating the barrier of the epidermis and helping keratinocytes to differentiate.

Vitamin B7 (Biotin)

Biotin deficiency often leads to skin issues, hair loss, and brittle nails. Therefore, it has been sold as a “beauty nutrient” supplement to support skin and nails. However, the research and studies supporting its use in this way are very small and limited. Therefore, I would absolutely not recommending wasting your money on any of these - the evidence does not yet support it in a healthy individual.

Other roles for biotin include regulation of blood sugar and working as a catalyst in chemical reactions in your body.

Food sources of biotin include organs, red meat, eggs, fish, seeds and nuts, and sweet potatoes.

What about Vitamin B and its roles outside of skin health?

Vitamin B1 (also known as thiamine) is vital for brain function. It is important in helping product ATP, which is our main energy source for our cellular function, as well as having a role in our memory. Vitamin B2 (riboflavin) is crucial in energy production for our cells. Vitamin B6 (pyridoxine) is another one of the B vitamins implicated in cardiovascular health, as well as helping the immune system function. Finally, folic acid is crucial in the formation of red blood cells, as well as in preventing neural tube defects (which is why it is recommended in pregnancy). Vitamin B12 has a similar role in the formation of red blood cells, which is why a deficiency can lead to anaemia. It also plays a role in cognitive function.

Vitamin C

“C” is for Collagen.

We’ve previously discussed how incredibly important collagen is for the structure of our skin. Well this is one of the key reasons why we love Vitamin C. It is essential for collagen’s stability. Additionally, it is famously a powerful antioxidant and helps to protect the skin against free radical damage, as well as ensuring a more even complexion by reducing hyperpigmentation.

The most active form of Vitamin C is L-ascorbic acid. You might also find other deriatives in your skincare products such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate or retinyl ascorbate, however note that a much smaller percentage of these products then you’d think are actually converted to the active form of Vitamin C when applied to your skin. L-ascorbic acid is extremely reactive overall, so should not be exposed to light or air. Therefore, it should come in an opaque package. Vitamin C has been shown to be more efficacious as the percentage increases up to 20%. Formulations above this are unlikely to be conferring any additional benefit.

Vitamin C can be used every day in your skincare routine, however it can be irritating for those with more sensitive skin. I love using a good Vitamin C serum in the mornings. If you are having trouble tolerating them, you can start at a lower percentage or introduce the ingredient more gently into your skincare routine.

The Science: Collagen is the most abundant protein in mammals, and we all know how much we depend on it for our bouncy, glowing skin. When collagen is formed in the body, it is a coiled structure that consists of three helical polypeptide chains. To stabilise these rings, hydroxyproline is extremely important in holding together this structure. To put it simply, Vitamin C is required to form stable collagen fibres because of its role in the synthesis of hydroxyproline from proline, acting on the enzyme prolyl hydroxylase. During the chemical reaction, the enzyme is oxidised leading to its becoming inactive. To get it back to the active form, ascorbate (Vitamin C) works as an antioxidant, reducing the iron ion produced.

What about Vitamin C and its roles outside of skin health?

You’ve probably heard many times to drink orange guide or supplement you Vitamin C if you have a cold. While it is not in doubt that Vitamin C plays a role in the immune system, the jury is still out as to how helpful taking in extra Vitamin C is if you are feeling unwell!

As far as getting good sources of Vitamin C in your diet, the classic example is a citrus fruit like oranges. Vitamin C can also be found in peppers, strawberries, blackcurrants, and broccoli.

Vitamin D

Any medical student can tell you how important Vitamin D is for calcium absorption and bone health. There is also increasing evidence about its role in the immune system and in tumour prevention.

Vitamin D is a fat-soluble prohormone, and its role in our bodies is very, very complex. Deficiency has been linked to things like insulin resistance, hypertension, and increased risk of certain diseases.

The Science: There are two forms - Vitamin D2 and Vitamin D3. Vitamin D2 (ergocalciferol) is found in plants and fortified foods, and can be found in some vitamin supplements. Vitamin D2 (cholecalciferol) is what is synthesised in our skin, and is also found in oily fish.

The Vitamin D derived from diet or skin is biologically inactive, until it circulates to the liver where it is metabolised to 25-hydroxyvitamin D, and then moved to the kidneys, where it is converted to it’s active hormone form of 1,25-dihydroxyvitamin D.

We make most of our Vitamin D ourselves, by converting cholesterol into its precursors after exposure to the sun. It is not well understood how much sun exposure will provide adequate Vitamin D synthesis, and it is difficult to balance this with the risk of skin cancer. The current theory is that in Fitzpatrick Types 1-III, regular short exposure of no more than 10-15 minutes around midday should be more than enough. Even with sunscreen there is still UVB radiation reaching the skin, but it is very difficult to tease out all the different factors at play.

During the winter months or in patients with darker skin tones, oral Vitamin D intake becomes much more important. The NHS recommends that we have an intake of around 400 IU (10mcg/day) of Vitamin D, and if you’re not getting that in your diet and live in a colder climate like the UK, supplementation is often recommended.

Be aware it is possible to overdose on Vitamin D supplements, and that taking in too much can cause an imbalance on the calcium levels in your blood. This can lead to a deterioration in your bones and damage to your kidneys.

What about Vitamin D and its roles outside of skin health?

Vitamin D is famously crucially important for the regulation and absorption of calcium throughout our bodies, controlling its level in our bloodstream and the amount in our bones. It also seems to have a role to play in the immune system.

So where can we find it in our diets? Great sources are cod liver oil, fatty salmon or mackerel, fortified milks and cereals, and eggs. But our diet is often not enough to supply the WHO recommended intake of 200iu (5mcg/day), and for this reason Vitamin D supplementation is often recommended. Be aware that it is possible to overdose on Vitamin D supplements if taken inappropriately over a long period of time. As I stated before, you should always discuss any supplements with your doctor.

Vitamin E

Vitamin E is an excellent moisturiser for those with sensitive skin. It also has antioxidant effects similar to Vitamin C. Think of it as a beautiful addition to your skin barrier, sealing in the moisture. This Vitamin is one that required the most research for its use in the skin, as it is the one we under the least about!

The Science: This vitamin works as an antioxidant, scavenging free radicals in the skin. It is a very unstable molecule, and will deteriorate when exposed to air and light, so its chemical formulation in products is important. When it is delivered to the skin, it has a role in inhibiting UV damage.

What about Vitamin E and its roles outside of skin health?

Its main role in the body, as mentioned briefly above, is as an antioxidant. It is incorporated into all the membranes of our cells to fight free radicals. It also plays in a role in our cardiovascular health by helping to prevent plaque formation in our arteries, decreasing the risk of heart disease.

Men need about 4mg of Vitamin E a day, and women need 3mg. You do not need to take Vitamin E supplements if you are eating a healthy diet!

Vitamin E can be found in plant oils like rapeseed, sunflower, soya, and olive oils. It can also be found in many nuts and seeds.

Final Thoughts

Vitamins are essential overall for our health and our skin. Eat gorgeous whole foods and have a varied diet, and you will get the vitamins you need!

Our understanding of how vitamins work allows us to also figure out how to use them topically in a variety of skincare products. This is an exciting and ever-expanding area of research.

To learn more about essential nutrients, read our article about minerals.

References

Chen AC, Damian DL. Nicotinamide and the skin. Australas J Dermatol. 2014 Aug;55(3):169-75. doi: 10.1111/ajd.12163. Epub 2014 Mar 17. PMID: 24635573.

Keen MA, Hassan I. Vitamin E in dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J. 2016;7(4):311-315. doi:10.4103/2229-5178.185494

Webb AR, Engelson O. Calculated ultraviolet exposure levels for a healthy vitamin D Status. Photochem Photobiol 2006; 82:1697-703.